Bi-Rite's owner Sam Mogannam was once a professional chef, and the deli counters at Bi-Rite pay homage to that. Every chef on staff has worked in high-level restaurants prior to joining the team, and Bi-Rite prides itself in offering a selection of high-quality produce and meat.

All Divisadero Dinner ingredients are sourced from the store itself. To find inspiration, chef Ryan Nguyen (above right) walks around the store and the back storage rooms. Each day's menu depends on what's in season and what catches his attention. He says the trick is to keep the flavors cohesive while covering a number of dishes, from chicken to risotto to pot pie. And although he plays homage to the classics ("they exist for a reason"), he says he's not afraid to push the boundaries a little on flavor.  

At 4:45pm—after each dinner has been made—the chefs and deli workers have a "line-up". The chef explains the motivation behind the meal and the various ingredients, and the deli staff take samples so they know what it tastes like. This behind-the-scenes process helps staff make well-informed recommendations to customers. 

Want to get in on the Divisadero Dinner action? Simply walk up to the deli counter any day after 4:45pm and pick and choose what you like. You can order the entire customized dinner, or bits and pieces. If you want just the protein and are fine cooking your own vegetables, you can help yourself to the produce section. Meals are sold by the pound and are priced around $10-$17 depending what's being served. All meals can be eaten immediately or saved for later: for example, the roast chicken is designed to be reheated without drying out.

The day we visited, the dinner menu included roasted chicken, chicken pot pies, asparagus, risotto, and mashed potatoes. On Cinco de Mayo they served up a festive menu of chicken mole, lamb albondigas, ceviche, and sopes with tomatillo–braised llano seco pork shoulder. And tonight? Chef's choice, as always. For updates on each day's menu, follow Bi-Rite on Twitter.