In a city where utility often trumps flair, fashion-savvy guys like Dario Smith are hard to come by.
Smith, a Lower Haight resident, is often seen around the neighborhood wearing some jazz-age getup resembling John Coltrane or Miles Davis. He curates most of his outfits from thrift shops and older family members, and often mixes retro materials and prints with trendy, urban-inspired items.
Style is more than just Smith’s hobby. As creative director of True Clothing, Smith is constantly seeking out designers and brands, recruiting models and putting together look books. When he's not at True, Smith is developing The Bellwether Project, a personal styling service he co-created in 2012. Bellwether is a resource for men who need an outfit for a special occasion —like a wedding or a job interview—or are just dissatisfied with their wardrobe.
The process starts with a style questionnaire and a closet assessment. Smith and his colleagues figure out what works for their client then sell or donate any clothing that doesn’t fit the bill. Once the closet's clear, they go shopping (within the client’s budget.) If all goes according to plan, Smith says, guys will leave with clothes that both suit their character than the situation they’re entering.
Bellwether also carries a line of leather portfolio bags. Smith hopes to expand the retail end of the brand in the future.
We sat down with Smith to chat about men's fashion, living and working on Haight Street and the future of Bellwether.
How did you get into men's fashion?
"It kinda happened out of necessity. In 2010 I got into a bike accident. I was tapped by a car from behind, flew over my handlebars and my collarbone shot out. I lost my job because I was working at a warehouse and I could no longer lift anything, and it forced me to start looking for another job. At the time, I didn’t have a single collared shirt in my closet. So I started looking through men’s magazines and seeing what people regarded as good attire. I’ve always been really into jazz, and when I think of dressing well I look to jazz artists like Miles Davis and John Coltrane. I look to people who have mastered dressing themselves."
How did you transition from not owning a collared shirt to professionally dressing men?
"Around the time of the accident I picked up a camera, and for the nine months I was out of work I practiced photography. I started shooting at night clubs in the city— usually coming from a job interview dressed in this jazz look. It became something that people recognized me for. I became the “well-dressed photographer” and started booking more gigs from that. I realized that your style is your brand. People are visual. You only get one first impression, therefore you should look how you want to be greeted."
Dario Smith (left) and his colleagues Tim Taechitorote (middle) and Dante Wright (right). (photo: Kola Shabo)
How does a person master their own style?
"Consistency. Finding what you like—a color palette, a silhouette, an era—and building on that as your second skin. Its not so much what you’re wearing but how you’re wearing it—also being aware of what you’re presenting about yourself at all times. There are a lot of places to shop in SF. But knowing what fits you is key."
What’s your clientele like?
"Mostly young professionals between 27 and 45. We get guys who are single, married, gay, straight, just getting out of college… guys who are transitioning to a new job or just realizing that they need to get out of whatever space they’re in. This is one way to help them with that transition. "
What’s up with the bag?
"It started as me having an idea for a laptop bag that I wanted for myself. Everyone in Italy had something similar, but the only place I could find one was at Barney’s for like $400. I get all the leather from Napa, and every bag is made in Berkeley by Aegis Handcraft."
How do you like living in Lower Haight (versus Oakland, previously)?
"It’s great, but it’s a lot different than Oakland. These neighborhoods that are so close together—Lower and Upper Haight, Hayes Valley and Fillmore—are all so different from each other. You could walk a hundred blocks in Oakland and it all pretty much feels the same."
Where do you shop for your clothes?
"Everywhere. Mostly thrift stores though. My favorite place to shop is Held Over in Upper Haight. I shop there so much they give me 20 percent off everything. I’ve stopped asking where to find things because I know their inventory better than the staff."
What does the future look like for Bellwether?
"We’re looking to start workshops at public high schools. I really want to reach out to high-school-age guys about the importance of building the tools in their closet. Young people miss job opportunities because they have a t-shirt on or they’re slouching in an interview. We want to help. We want to show young guys how to take their allowance—or whatever money they have—and put it toward a suit at Goodwill. We want to teach them how to check for blemishes, how to tell which clothes are worth investing in and how to find a good tailor. The rest of the workshops will be about professionalism—sitting up straight, greeting the person and being on time."
