Since 2013, Phillip Thoman and his partner Daniel Rodriguez have been at the helm of 30-seat restaurant Olea, which is embedded a few feet below street level, into the corner of Larkin and California streets. It's a cozy destination for dinner and weekend brunch.

Thoman originally worked as a manager at Zuni Cafe in the '90s, before embarking on a two-decade career in film. After deciding to get out of that world so he could own his own business, he returned to the restaurant industry, which he said has many similarities.

"Working in films and working in restaurants are similar, in that during the filming day, you can't stop, or you lose money," he explained. "With a restaurant, once you open your doors, you can't close. You have to problem-solve to make it through the day." 

In fact, Thoman had to employ his problem-solving skills from the start, since he and his husband chose not to close the restaurant down when it changed hands. To ensure the transition went as smoothly as possible—and that Olea's regular brunch crowd wasn't left hanging—the change of ownership literally occurred overnight. 

Thoman did make a few changes, such as deciding to not serve coffee outdoors while people waited to be seated, that required a bit of getting used to on his customers' end. 

Before Thoman took over, Olea had a Spanish-Mediterranean menu, and had already established itself in the neighborhood as a mainstay for brunch. But it hadn't put quite the same amount of thought into its dinnertime offerings, he said, so he decided to transform the menu to feature classic California cuisine. He said his decision to expand the dinner menu and shift the wine list to recognizable California labels was a change welcomed by old regulars and new patrons alike.

Chef Chien Wong, who originally trained at the now-closed Hawthorne Lane, stayed on with Thoman after cooking at the original Olea, which Thoman said helped keep a lot of the spirit of the place alive. The dinner menu now features an ever-changing list of dishes, including beef tenderloin ($26) and seared scallops ($24). 

On the brunch front, Thoman told us he wanted to "keep the heart and soul" of the menu, including popular items like the french toast—now called "Olea's Challah Custard Toast" ($14.75)—and a baked egg dish called cazuela ($13.75). He's added some Mexican-influenced dishes, such as huevos rancheros ($14.25), and some outdoor sidewalk seating to provide a sunny atmosphere for putting back mimosas.

Olea may be small, but its size is a plus in Thoman's view. He says his lean operation allows him to keep prices down, and provides a more cozy experience than a bigger restaurant.

"I'm happy that I'm able to open our doors and know that when people walk in, they'll have a nice, relaxing time and an amazing dinner."