Bay Area/ Oakland/ Food & Drinks
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Published on September 08, 2023
Revolutionizing Soul Food as Oakland's Burdell Embraces Modernity and Traditionburdelloakland.com

With a rich history rooted in tradition and family, Oakland's Burdell has captured the hearts and taste buds of diners even before it officially opened its doors. Chef Geoff Davis, the culinary mastermind behind the innovative venture, is redefining what it means to dine on soul food in today's modern world. Drawing inspiration from his own family and culinary experiences, Davis's Burdell is a tribute to the memories and flavors he savored as a child while offering contemporary flair and techniques.

Set to open on September 9 at 4640 Telegraph Ave., Burdell promises to be a unique and exciting addition to Oakland's thriving dining scene. Before opening as a brick-and-mortar establishment, the endeavor began as a pop-up last year, where Davis showcased his combination of African-American traditions, fine dining, and his passion for cooking that started in his grandparents' kitchen, according to SFGATE.

Refusing to abide by the typical stereotypes associated with soul food, such as fried chicken or chicken and waffles, Davis constructs a menu that evokes traditional flavors with a contemporary twist by implementing techniques he accumulated throughout his impressive culinary career. Burdell's tempting offerings include a cornmeal waffle adorned with chicken liver pate, crispy chicken skin, and maple vinaigrette, or boiled peanuts with tasso spice and peanut miso.

(Oakland's Burdell)

Davis takes pride in creating a cozy, inviting ambiance reminiscent of a cherished visit to one's grandmother's home. Occupying the space once held by the beloved Aunt Mary's Cafe, the new Burdell bears the name of Davis's maternal grandmother, continuing the familial legacy. The interior pays homage to Davis's heritage, with pink walls, vintage dishware, and blues tunes playing in the background, culminating in a contemporary yet nostalgic atmosphere.

Examples of his reimagined soul food classics include okra stew made with green beans, sesame oil, and paste, a reworked version of the Southern "holy trinity" of green pepper, celery, and onion, and mouthwatering pork chops sourced from Klingeman Family Farms in Washington state served with mustard seed jus, chanterelles, and peach jam.

General Manager Omar White has curated a wine selection boasting more than 70 varieties, while Jared Murray, formerly of True Laurel, has crafted low-alcohol cocktails modeled after classic concoctions. To cater to different dining preferences, Burdell plans to offer a family-style prix fixe menu for $79 per person, featuring dishes like smothered rabbit with offal gravy and spring onions, as well as the option to add a wine pairing for $55.