A beloved Basque beacon in San Francisco's culinary scene is dimming its lights for the last time tonight. Piperade, the esteemed downtown eatery known for its robust Basque flavors, is dishing out its final servings amid the city's bustling Embarcadero area. After a lengthy tenure of over two decades, the doors at 1015 Battery Street will close as Chef and owner Gerald Hirigoyen opts for a well-deserved retirement.
A culinary fixture since 2002, Piperade has served as a vibrant taste of Basque country in the heart of San Francisco. Its closure, however, isn't a casualty of the pandemic or a response to the financial pressures that have gripped many of the city's downtown businesses. In an interview with SF Eater, Hirigoyen admits, "Why [is the restaurant closing]? Because I’m old," he says with a laugh. "I want to retire, and now is the time. It’s not that complicated."
The chef, alongside his wife Cameron Hirigoyen, has become a significant figure in San Francisco's food lore. Long before becoming known for Piperade, Hirigoyen launched his inaugural venture Fringale in 1991, which stood as a French bistro pioneer in SoMa until its closure in 2020. The entrepreneurial spirit didn't stop there; Piperade was preceded by Pastis, launched in 1996, before the couple overhauled the establishment into the now departing Piperade.
Hirigoyen's culinary excellence did not go unnoticed over the years, earning praise and honors including a nomination for the James Beard Foundation's Best Chef California in 2006 and a coveted spot as one of Food & Wine Magazine’s Best New Chefs in 1994. The announcement in early 2023 that Piperade was set to close gave regulars and newcomers alike a chance to experience the restaurant's much-lauded cuisine one last time, resulting in reservations that have been "off the charts," according to the chef himself.
The final night of Piperade is shaping up to be an evening replete with emotion and gratification for its patrons and proprietors. "I’m really thankful for this city," Hirigoyen expressed during preparations for the restaurant’s final days. "This city gave me a lot. I’ve been very blessed to have such success — however you measure success. I’m retiring very happy. It’s been really sensational to be a part of this vibrant city. I met great people, I drank a lot of great wines, and I got to do things I never thought I’d do," he told SF Eater. As the sun sets on this chapter of San Francisco dining history, Piperade bows out with a full house, leaving behind a legacy of cultural blend, culinary innovation, and an unparalleled commitment to the tastes of Basque country.
