It’s the many small details that make a big statement. Tucked away in a small alley off of Kearny Street, Homage lends a unique flavor to the bustle of the Financial District.
David Kurtz—owner, executive chef and Bernal Heights resident—opened Homage four months ago, after two and a half years of planning. At the time it opened, the restaurant's goal was to serve breakfast and lunch dishes that utilize local, seasonal ingredients, but still offer the fast turnaround that busy FiDi workers often need, including counter service.
The name "Homage" reflects Kurtz's homage to farmers; on his menu, he spotlights individual farms that provide the restaurant's food.
Although starting a business in downtown San Francisco has its share of obstacles, Kurtz, formerly of Maven, has risen to the challenge. He admitted to walking 52 possible sites before finding the eatery's current home.
To make a mark in the competitive Financial District restaurant scene, efficiency and a well-trained staff were Kurtz's top priorities. “I was trying to adapt fine-dining technique, etiquette and products into the mold of the Financial District's quick-paced lunch service,” he said.
Kurtz personally designed his kitchen from the ground up—literally, given that he tore up the floor—to create a space that would be the most efficient. But while the careful design of the back-of-house may go unnoticed by most customers, Kurtz hopes the quality of the service and the food make an impression.
The neighborhood has responded well to Homage, and its lunch popularity is growing fast. “When people come, hopefully they’re impressed and happy with what we have to offer. One person will come, they’ll tell their staff, they’ll tell their companions—so it grows very organically,” Kurtz said. "I think our attention to detail is appreciated.”
The menu spotlights a new farm every month, and Kurtz visits the farmers market almost every Saturday, often accompanied by sous chef Chelsea Olsen and front-of-house manager Anya Shova.
Some of his relationships with farmers go back seven to eight years. “For me, it comes full circle. One-third of the menu is verbiage dedicated to the farms, to display where these products are coming from, who they are, what their children's softball positions are.”
Many items are made in-house. Kurtz and his team bake a three-day fermented bread, a process that requires patience and care; the starter for the bread needs constant attention.
Kurtz's goal is to not only create a positive experience for guests, but for his staff as well. “The most rewarding thing is to see the staff happy,” he said.
Homage recently introduced a "Twilight Hour" service (3-9pm Tuesday-Friday) with an extensive wine and beer list, a completely new menu, and a more traditional table service atmosphere. Dishes include meatballs, a kimchi and scallion pancake, and the ceviche recipe Kurtz used at his own wedding, featuring sustainably sourced fish from TwoXSea.
"We pushed hard to open Twilight Hour," Kurtz said. "We brought in a whole new crew, it’s a whole new menu, it’s a whole new style of service. It’s basically like opening a whole new restaurant."
Looking toward the future, Kurtz says he wants to continue building a relationship with the neighborhood and stabilizing Twilight Hour. “This is what we need to do for the neighborhood. People are asking for this all the time.”
Kurtz and crew are also focusing more and more on “favors for neighbors,” using the versatility of the restaurant's design to adapt to the district's demands. “Teams, small businesses, or groups just come in [to] have a little decompression. Or the boss takes them out for a happy hour. It’s cool to see. It’s like a collaborative space.”
