Roy Choi, the culinary mastermind behind the famed Kogi BBQ trucks, is serving up a fresh take on tacos with his newest Los Angeles venture, Tacos Por Vida. The anticipated taco stand unveiled on Overland Avenue, echoes the vibe of a laid-back backyard bash, amped by the chef's signature flavors.
Launching with a soft opening, the Tacos Por Vida stand debuted without fanfare, opting instead for an authentic street-side experience. Choi, in a statement obtained by Eater, shared his initial tensions, "We were trying to open real quiet, just post up next to the Kogi truck." The trial run seemed to have passed with flying colors as Choi recounted the positive feedback he received, complete with expletives that to him signify culinary success. "Whenever I can make people say, 'Fuck,' we're good. And it did that," Choi told Eater.
Amid the city's evolving dining scene, Choi saw Tacos Por Vida as an opportunity to re-establish Kogi's presence and offer economic relief through affordable catering in tough times. He confided in an Instagram post, expressing both trepidation and excitement ahead of the opening, while also hinting at the meticulous process behind the scenes, "These are the things we're up at night fine tuning."
Choi's new outpost sticks to basics with handcrafted tortillas packed with Asada, chicken, mushrooms, or al pastor, harmonized by Choi's concoction of salsas and guacamole. The menu, inspired by Choi's diverse background, promises a high-octane flavor profile, "I'm proud of the meats. I'm proud of the marinades," he mused, according to Eater. The chef's pride in his sauces flows into his offering, featuring a charred tomatillo salsa verde and a salsa roja, aiming to craft the perfect bite for his patrons.
The food scene virtuoso hasn't unveiled a new project in Los Angeles since 2016, which makes Tacos Por Vida's entry quite significant. It's not merely a taco stand; it’s a statement and a reconnection with the city for Choi. "It comes from our culture, it comes from our people," Choi elucidated the ethos behind Tacos Por Vida to Eater. The taco stand is getting ready to add a new chapter to LA’s vibrant street food narrative, starting with its opening days on March 12, 13, 28, and 29 from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m.
