Calavera, once a buzzing Mexican restaurant in Oakland's Uptown district, has shut its doors for good. Despite a promising opening back in the fall of 2015, the establishment succumbed to various challenges, signaling a somber start to 2024. An Instagram post by Calavera Oakland announced the closure, attributing the decision to "the state of Oakland" which "hasn’t been kind to small businesses"—a situation exacerbated by decreased foot traffic and sales.
A report by SFGATE highlighted the difficulties faced by Calavera, with general managing partner Ryan Dixon revealing in a September interview that business had fallen by 25%. Dixon blamed security concerns that kept customers away, emphasizing a need to "hype up the crime" in hopes to not scare potential patrons. However, the strategy didn't quite pan out, as the restaurant's struggle with foot traffic and break-ins ultimately contributed to its downfall, too.
While Calavera boasted authentic Oaxacan cuisine upon opening, it wasn't without its woes. In 2016, a class-action lawsuit accused the restaurant owners of wage theft—an issue that was eventually settled after over 260 employees joined the fight, according to SFGATE. Employee Flor Crisostomo detailed her difficult experiences at Calavera, where she felt her labor and cultural contributions were exploited.
Moreover, Calavera has not shied away from scrutiny in its later years. The restaurant was a source of contention for the San Francisco Chronicle's associate restaurant critic Cesar Hernandez, who challenged Calavera's authenticity and associated it with gentrification. In his critique, he said, "On a brunch-time visit to Calavera, I saw a table of women toasting with $15 June in Tulum cocktails and eating tacos with their forks," expressing that the establishment was "not for anyone who likes and respects Mexican food." These observations, as further detailed in a blistering Chronicle article entitled "What does gentrification taste like? This dreadful Oakland restaurant serves it on a tortilla," painted Calavera not only as a hub of subpar gastronomy but also as a symbol of broader community and cultural disruptions.
Calavera's closure marks the end of an era for the establishment at 2337 Broadway in Oakland—a place caught between struggles of safety, authenticity, and the harsh realities of urban business environments.
