It's a moment of transformation for Portland's vegan food scene as chef Aaron Adams announces the closing of Fermenter, a vegan deli celebrated for its fermentation flair. According to The Oregonian/OregonLive, Fermenter, which opened its doors five years ago and quickly rose to prominence, earning a spot among Portland's best new restaurants in 2019, will serve its last dish at the end of March. Despite the loss of Fermenter, Adams is swiftly pivoting to launch a new plant-based restaurant in its stead by April 12, promising to keep the current team employed.
In a social media post, Adams made it clear that he aims to smoothly transition to the new venture without breaking up his dedicated crew. Highlighting his commitment to his staff, Adams told Portland Business Journal, "I wanted my employees to work less hard and make more money. That was the No. 1 goal." The untitled project is veiled in secrecy, but Adams hinted that it will cater to evolving customer demands and his own gastronomic curiosity in the Portland restaurant landscape.
Fermenter's closure underscores the harsh economic realities of innovative vegan cuisine. Despite earning rave reviews and drawing in a dedicated following, the financial strain of maintaining a business model centered around scratch-made plant-based fair proved daunting. "Creating high-quality vegan food that people are unwilling to pay premium prices for is a recipe for struggle, not success," Adams explained in an article found at BNNBreaking.com. Nevertheless, the Fermenter brand will continue to be a part of Portland's food culture through products and classes.
The quick turnaround for Adams's new project illustrates a resilience in the face of adversity for the city's plant-based dining scene. The new restaurant will occupy the same location at 1403 S.E. Belmont St., ensuring that fans of Fermenter won't have to find their vegan favorites in a distant venue. Meanwhile, Adams has already dipped his toes back into more upscale dining with the opening of Astera, his foray into fixed-price dining experiences next to the soon-to-be-former Fermenter, as reported by The Oregonian/OregonLive. With a dynamic shift geared to capture the fickle affections of consumers, the new restaurant is set to redefine expectations and potentially set a new bar for Portland’s vegan food aficionados.
