Taiwan's culinary legacy is set soon to get a new champion in Andersonville with the opening of Minyoli, a restaurant dedicated to the traditional fare from Taiwan's distinct juàn cun, military dependents' villages. Slated for an early spring debut at 5420 N. Clark St., the site of the former Land & Lake Kitchen and previously acclaimed Korean-Italian hotspot Passerotto, Minyoli promises to bring a taste of Taiwanese history through its menu focused on beef noodle soup – often regarded as Taiwan's national dish.
Taipei-born chef Rich Wang, who previously honed his skills at Michelin-starred eateries such as Boka and the James Beard Award-winning Fat Rice, is at the helm of Minyoli. According to a statement obtained by Chicago Eater, the culinary artist is set to offer a soup infused with “a deep and herbal broth infused with warm spices like cardamom and cinnamon,” accompanied by springy, house-made noodles and succulent beef shank. Wang, who grew up in a juàn cun, aims to spotlight the quickly vanishing cultural identity of these unique enclaves through his food.
The beef noodle soup, a juàn cun original, is not the only draw. According to Block Club Chicago, the restaurant will also feature lu wei snacks, translated to braised snacks, and a diverse dessert menu that nods to Taiwanese flavors with ice cream options like taro and black sesame. Wang also reportedly promised a cocktail menu that will showcase Taiwanese liquors and beers.
The space itself is transforming to reflect the cultural and historical significance of the juàn cun. Light natural wood, woven basket lampshades, and exposed brick walls will adorn the 1,775-square-foot interior. And to evoke a sense of nostalgia, Wang has decided to prominently feature a shade of aquamarine that is emblematic of the villages. He told Chicago Eater, “That specific color, you can find it everywhere in juàn Cun, probably because it was the cheapest paint available at the time." This particular hue serves as a reminder of his childhood, infusing the restaurant with personal significance just as much as cultural authenticity.
Minyoli enters the Chicago food scene at a time when legacy dishes and the stories they carry are increasingly sought after by diners looking to connect to different cultures through cuisine. Wang's journey, from Taipei's military villages to Chicago's food hotspots, and even a noodle "boot camp" in Lanzhou, China, has culminated in the creation of a restaurant that promises to serve up not just a meal, but a slice of history that's endangered of being forgotten.
