Chicago's culinary scene faced a bitter taste of goodbye in 2023 as several beloved restaurants shuttered their doors for the last time, leaving foodies and nostalgia-hunters reminiscing over what used to be their favorite eateries. According to Eater Chicago, the list of closures hit heavy with names like Split-Rail, known for its fried chicken, and Calumet Fisheries, even if it was a temporary closure. The burger from Owen & Engine will live on in the hearts of some, as Jeffy Mai, editor at Time Out Chicago, fondly remembers it and hopes for its revival at Bixi Beer.
It wasn't only the food journalists who felt the pang of loss; Chicagoans poured out their gastronomical grief, sharing tales of their deeply missed dining destinations. WTTW's Deep Dish collected these stories, with many recalling iconic spots such as The Parthenon in Greektown and the Allerton Hotel’s L’Escargot, which boasted a "white-and-cream dining room" that was "lovely, with high ceilings, large arched windows, plenty of room between tables, and elegant furnishings," as one Maria Cooper described; however, these snapshot memories are far from filling the void left behind.
While high-end, downtown establishments earned their place in Chicago’s historical palate, citywide and suburban restaurants also held their share of sentimental value. From the spinach pie at the Red Star Inn to the twinkling outdoor area of Greektown's Pegasus, residents remembered it with a mixed feeling of elation and sorrow. As the food landscape of the Windy City evolves, these closed establishments are sewn into the fabric of its residents' personal histories, their flavors lingering long after the last plate has been cleared.
Immortalized in the collective memory are moments that encapsulate more than just the act of dining: places like Henrici's, where Joan Schommer "felt so grown up" dining with her mother, or the treasure chest of presents at Harding’s that delighted children during the holidays. And let's not forget the suburbs, where residents like Elizabeth Stoffel mourn for the homemade bread and steamy windows of the Butt’ry in Wilmette—it's these community pillars whose loss echoes the strongest among the hearts of the locals. These restaurants weren't just venues, but landmarks in life's journey, stages for celebrations, commiserations, and the everyday meals in between.
While many establishments come and go, the ones that truly matter leave a lasting impression, leaving diners not only craving for their signature dishes but longing for the experiences and ambiances that once accompanied them. As Chicago continues to dine forward, the hope is that the new generation of eateries can cook up memories as rich and savory as the ones now past.
