Turning a corner on a rocky start, Chef Shonya "Royce" Williams gave her soul food restaurant in Lincoln Park, Soul Prime, a chance to thrive, thanks to a viral TikTok review by MMA fighter and food critic Keith Lee. Williams had originally aimed to reintroduce her culinary skills to the West Side of the city, but an opportunity in Lincoln Park seemed to be an answered prayer, as she detailed in an interview with Eater Chicago.
With monthly rent at a steep $14,338.51, sales below $1,000 a day, and without any backing in the way of loans or grants, Williams used her savings to open the restaurant. The lack of local support and minimal marketing had her on the brink of closing just months after opening. However, a pivotal review and a generous gesture from Lee, who matched her day's sales with a $2,200 contribution in September 2023, along with millions of views on his TikTok video turned the restaurant's fortune around. "The Keith Lee community is my local community...they come and say they were sent by Keith Lee," Williams told the Sun-Times.
Royce's venture had been a cultural standout in an area where the median household income in the 60614 zip code towers over the rest of the city, yet struggled to resonate with the residents. However, after Keith Lee's endorsement, a new clientele began crossing the threshold of Soul Prime. According to the Eater Chicago feature, Royce's dedication to her craft remains unfaltering despite the restaurant's precarious start and Lincoln Park’s demographic setup.
The restaurant scene is not just about food but also about perceptions, and in the case of Soul Prime, the fight was uphill. Adrian Miller, a James Beard Award-winning author, described soul food's stigmatization and the struggle for chefs like Williams who not only need to cook but also educate about their cuisine – a sentiment she can undoubtedly relate to. The "Keith Lee effect" has not only increased her sales but also sparked discussions on the historical and cultural significance of soul food, which Williams hopes will continue to resonate with her expanding customer base. "I'm not giving up yet," she told the Sun-Times.
Looking to the future, Williams aims to hire additional staff and sustain the growth propelled by Lee’s viral moment. Her story is one of resilience and the unpredictable power of social media, which has brought a strong customer flow even months after the TikTok post. The newfound success of Soul Prime seems to be a testament to Royce's hopeful mantra – that her labor of love in food could break barriers and unify communities one dish at a time.
