Reviving two landmark Italian eateries in New York, Stephen Starr of Starr Restaurants is set to take charge of Babbo and Lupa, establishments originally founded by Mario Batali. As reported by Eater, the move brings back the esteemed chef Mark Ladner, who had a significant role in both restaurants' histories, specifically leading Babbo's kitchen.
Starr, known for Le Coucou and a Pastis partnership, is looking to rebuild Babbo and Lupa's reputations after the establishments suffered setbacks following sexual assault charges against Batali in 2017 during the rise of #MeToo; this, despite the previous tweaks in ownership and attempts to move past the controversies. "This is a new era," Youjin Jung, Babbo's executive chef in 2022, had noted, reflecting on the need to emerge from under the long-casting "orange shadow with a ponytail," in a statement obtained by Eater.
Ladner's previous stint with the Batali-Bastianich restaurants saw him bring Del Posto to unprecedented acclaim, clinching a four-star New York Times rating and a Michelin star. Moreover, after the close of his venture Pasta Flyer, Ladner has offered his expertise to other groups and was recently acting as a consultant for Parcelle, as detailed by Eater.
The Bastianich family has agreed to sell the iconic Babbo and Lupa to Starr's group, an acquisition signaling more than just a change of hands, it's an attempt to restore the former glory and ethical image of these eateries in a post-Batali era, Grub Street provided insight into the deal. For Babbo, a place that once challenged fine dining norms with gutsy menus and a classic rock vibe, could see a renaissance under Starr's stewardship with Mark Ladner once again at the helm, as narrated in Ruth Reichl's 1998 review boasting three stars due to its break from the typical Italian fare and forwarding this unique approach to the New York City dining scene, according to historical references from Grub Street.
While Batali was acquitted of the Boston charges and no criminal complaints were ever filed against him by former employees, the shadow of the allegations cast a pall over his former establishments, now with Starr and Ladner's collaboration, there is anticipation for a potential revival of these New York Italian dining landmarks, without the tarnish of their past association, as described by Grub Street.
