The original Akikos location on Bush Street is preparing for a dramatic comeback this fall, but not as the sushi destination locals remember. Instead, the iconic 431 Bush Street space will reopen in mid-to-late September as an entirely new restaurant—currently dubbed "TBD"—featuring an unlikely but compelling partnership between Akikos owner Ray Lee and Tommy Cleary, the acclaimed chef behind the shuttered Hina Yakitori.
This collaboration represents more than just another restaurant opening in San Francisco's evolving dining landscape. According to Eater SF, Lee and Cleary have been quietly workshopping their menu since the beginning of 2025, hosting test dinners at Lee's intimate Nob Hill spot, Friends Only. What emerged from those culinary experiments is an a la carte izakaya-style concept that blends Lee's refined Japanese sensibilities with Cleary's expertise in yakitori and grilled specialties.
The partnership comes as downtown San Francisco experiences what industry observers are calling a restaurant renaissance. The San Francisco Standard recently reported that the Financial District welcomed at least 16 new ground-floor businesses between January and April, with cellphone data showing 20% more visits than a year ago. The Treasury, located just steps away at 200 Bush Street, exemplifies this trend as a cocktail destination that's become a packed happy hour crowd of cool cats, hipsters, and suits.
A Meeting of Culinary Minds
Cleary brings an impressive pedigree to the partnership, having trained under legendary yakitori master Kazuo Nakayama at Tokyo's Tori+Salon before establishing himself as a pioneer of American yakitori culture. The Chronicle noted when Hina Yakitori opened in 2019 that it was "the first omakase-style yakitori restaurant in the Bay Area," with then-critic Soleil Ho later naming it one of the Bay Area's best new restaurants. The restaurant's closure in August 2023 left a significant void in San Francisco's Japanese dining scene.
For Lee, this represents a return to his family's roots while embracing innovation. SF Gate previously reported that the original Akiko's, which opened in 1987 under Lee's parents, moved to its current luxury location at 430 Folsom Street in January 2023. The Bush Street space had served as the family business for over three decades before Lee transformed it into San Francisco's pioneering omakase destination in 2009.
Testing Ground for Innovation
The Friends Only test dinners revealed the direction of the new collaboration. Cleary's contributions included traditional yakitori preparations like tsukune (chicken meatball with egg yolk) and kawa (crisp chicken skin wrapped around a skewer and dressed with salmon roe). Meanwhile, Lee offered refined interpretations like okonomiyaki with king crab and smoked trout roe, plus chawanmushi with shrimp and truffles.
The space itself is undergoing a complete transformation. According to Eater SF, Lee worked with Elmer Lin of Consortium SF to create a "dark and moody" atmosphere, incorporating paint and wallpaper by Scott White along with walnut millwork by Pseudo Studio. This aesthetic marks a departure from both the original Akikos intimate setting and Cleary's previous restaurant designs.
Broader Industry Context
The timing coincides with what food writers are calling a golden age for Japanese cuisine in the Bay Area. The Chronicle identified high-quality takeout sushi as one of 2025's defining food trends, with restaurants like Aji Kiji and Ebiko leading the charge. Meanwhile, omakase restaurants continue proliferating throughout the Peninsula, with new spots like Ren Omakase in Menlo Park joining the competitive landscape.
This represents part of a broader trend of chef partnerships and restaurant revivals across San Francisco. Recent months have seen collaborations between established and emerging culinary talents, from James Yeun Leong Parry's The Happy Crane in Hayes Valley to various pop-up partnerships throughout the city.
Cleary's Journey Back
For Cleary, the partnership represents a comeback from a challenging period. KQED reported that Hina Yakitori's closure was attributed to a particularly brutal July 2023 when, for the first time in four years, the restaurant failed to meet its financial obligations. Since then, Cleary has maintained visibility through pop-ups, including recent appearances at Berkeley Bowl West where his yakitori boxes sold out in 20 minutes.
His reputation remains stellar among industry insiders. Haute Living previously profiled Cleary as a meticulous craftsman who learned to work 15-hour days in Tokyo, commuting by bike through Japan's notoriously challenging weather conditions. His dedication to traditional techniques, combined with creative modern applications, earned consistent praise during Hina Yakitori's four-year run.
Strategic Location Advantages
The Bush Street location offers several strategic advantages. Le Central, the historic French bistro nearby, recently underwent its own revival under new ownership, demonstrating the neighborhood's potential for supporting established dining concepts. The area sits at the intersection of the Financial District, Union Square, and Chinatown, providing access to both daytime office workers and evening diners.
The restaurant scene in this corridor has evolved significantly. SF Gate noted that Le Central has been "the beating heart of the 'French corridor'" since 1974, with longtime regulars including former Mayor Willie Brown, who still maintains his weekly lunch tradition. This speaks to the area's capacity for supporting destination dining experiences.
Timing and Market Conditions
The September opening timeline aligns with broader seasonal patterns in San Francisco's restaurant industry. Fall openings allow restaurants to establish themselves before the holiday season while avoiding the summer slowdown that affects many downtown establishments. The Financial District's return-to-office trends, with 20% more visits than a year ago according to Placer.ai data, suggest growing demand for both lunch and dinner options.
This restaurant opening occurs six weeks after the initial Eater SF announcement, indicating the partnership moved quickly from concept to execution. The decision to forgo the Akiko's name suggests both chefs want to establish a distinct identity rather than trading on existing brand recognition.
The collaboration between Lee and Cleary represents more than just another restaurant opening—it's a meeting of two distinct Japanese culinary traditions that could help define the next phase of San Francisco's dining evolution. With test dinners already proving the concept's viability and both chefs bringing established followings, so-called TBD appears positioned to become a significant addition to the city's Japanese dining landscape when it opens its doors this September.
