LaPez Mod Mex has taken over the former Session Taco corner in the Central West End, bringing the Tilford brothers’ polished, wood-fired spin on Mexican cooking to Euclid and McPherson. The menu leans into seafood and big flavors, with plates like duck confit taquitos and bacon-fat fried lobster tacos, while the room glows under perforated tin stars and a Day of the Dead-style mural. Early diners have been talking up the ambitious food and cocktails, even as some note that the wait between small plates and mains can stretch a bit longer than they would like.
In a review for St. Louis Magazine, critic Dave Lowry zeroed in on the tortilla soup, calling it “a substantial, luscious stew,” and praised dishes such as the dorado Veracruzana and the wild mushroom enchiladas. He dubbed the guacamole “an avocado-ized cloud” threaded with smoked blue cheese and bacon, while also pointing out that the gap between the opening “botanos” and the heartier “platos” was a noticeable drawback.
What To Order
According to the restaurant's menu on LaPez Mod Mex, standouts include the guacamole with smoked blue cheese and chipotle oil, duck confit taquitos, and bacon-fat lobster tacos. There is also a four-variety enchilada selection that features a wild-mushroom option. The lineup mixes small plates with wood-grilled “platos” and larger entrees such as short-rib barbacoa and a pan-roasted dorado Veracruzana. Portions are meant for sharing, which makes it an easy choice for groups that want to graze their way through the menu.
Bar And Vibe
The cocktail program tilts heavily toward tequila and mezcal, with more than a dozen drinks that also work in cachaça and the honey-anise liqueur D’aristi Xtabentun, according to St. Louis Magazine. An angled bar and cushy booths give the corner a lively yet intimate feel. The review did roll its eyes a bit at some of the decor as a touch cliché, but not enough to kill the mood.
LaPez first launched in Kansas City, and the Tilford brothers later revealed that Session Taco’s Central West End location would be flipped into the LaPez concept, a move covered when it was announced last year by Sauce Magazine. The switch reflects their aim to get back to the entree-driven, wood-grilled style of cooking they say defined their earlier project, Milagro Modern Mexican.
LaPez lists its hours, full menu, and reservation details on its website, and the Central West End address remains focused on dinner service. Check LaPez Mod Mex for the latest availability. For St. Louis diners looking for a dress-up, flavor-forward Mexican spot in the CWE, the Tilfords’ new corner restaurant makes a strong case for itself, especially if you care as much about the cocktails as what is on the plate.
