South Durham's brunch crowd is about to lose a heavy hitter. True Flavors Diner, a longtime weekend magnet known for its oversized biscuits and inventive Southern plates, will close by the end of June, the owner says. After more than a decade feeding crowds near the airport, the restaurant's last service is expected sometime this month.
Chef-owner Sidney Coves told The News & Observer the decision is "bittersweet" and that he is stepping away from the diner to focus on other projects. According to The News & Observer, Coves said high operating costs, rising rent and competition from national chains pushed him to close the NC-55 location, and he noted that the business began as a catering company before opening a diner in 2015.
A local mainstay
True Flavors earned a loyal following for creative takes on Southern classics like lobster biscuits, duck ragu over grits and those famously oversized biscuits, and it regularly appeared on local lists of the best brunch spots. Food guides and critics, including Eater Carolinas and Hoodline's 3 best brunch spots, have spotlighted the diner over the years.
Why the owner is shifting focus
Coves has already opened Reno's Cheesesteaks in the Woodcroft Shopping Center and told The News & Observer that he plans to grow that concept into Chapel Hill and Raleigh over the next year and a half. Local business listings show Reno's at 4711 Hope Valley Road in Woodcroft, where the sandwich shop has drawn favorable customer reviews; see DiscoverDurham for details.
Lasting appetite for True Flavors
Coves said he wants to "leave on our own terms," and he has not announced an exact final service date for the diner. For many in Durham, the loss will be felt on slow weekday mornings and in those long weekend waits for biscuits that turned into a local ritual, a kind of sleepy South Durham roll call in the parking lot.
