In the Top Chef wars of San Francisco where winners are awarded coveted Michelin Stars and losers close doors and wander away licking their Yelp inflicted wounds the Castro's Frances (3870 17th Street, between Pond & Noe) continues to dominate all other neighborhood contenders with its quiet grace and stunning food.
The Castro is packed to the gills with eateries offering every cuisine known to tickle the fickle palette of our City's accomplished diners. San Franciscan's love to brag that if our sky was composed of restaurants that have been awarded the golden seal of a Michelin Star our sky would outshine the sun.
In truth forty-two restaurants were awarded stars in the greater Bay Area for the 2013 San Francisco Michelin Guide as was noted here by Grub Street SF blog in Oct 2012. Frances is the only one within the Castro thats been on the receiving end of that accolade of late.
Chef Melissa Perello (Photo: Stacey Ventura)
Opened November 2009 by Chef Melissa Perello, the small, spare, and perfectly balanced space, emits an unassuming presence that misleads with its cozy simplicity fooling the uniformed into thinking it's been part of our community for eons instead of a few short years.
Frances has gotten its fair share of complements: a James Beard “Best New Restaurant” nomination in 2010, Esquire magazine “Best New Restaurant”, was one of Bon Appétit magazine’s “Ten Best New Restaurants in America” in 2010, and of course, Michelin star from 2010-current.
In the three years since its big splash Chef and her kind, competent staff have continued to blaze trails with new and unusual fare.
I think it important to point out I am in by no stretch of the imagination a food critic. Or a 'foodie'. I like to eat and am willing to be food educated.
With that caveat I would say the dishes are Mediterranean-inspired, although I hear “Californian cuisine” bandied about too. Either way you label these creations my experience found all I tried delicious.
The current menu is a taste explosion. I began dinner with Grilled Beet Salad, add Toasted Seeds and Egg Gribiche. Gribiche is a French, mayo-style, cold egg sauce created by emulsifying hard-boiled egg yolks, mustard and a bit of canola oil. I had no idea, but, took my chances and am glad I did. A lovely taste combination.
I then plowed into Chestnut Soup-also a first for me-but it's Winter and soup is a staple in my book. It was a tasty mix of apples, onions and mushrooms. My cold little soul warmed up from the first hearty spoonful.
I'm Irish. And an unashamed carnivore. For my entrée I demolished a Five Dot Ranch Bavette Steak-cooked to perfection-medium rare-nestled with some almost ignored spinach. That was my fault, not the Chef's, I was so enamoured with the steak I'd allowed the spinach to grow tepid. (Insert spoiled, five-year old, yuck face here.)
I redeemed myself veggie wise by adding Brocoli Gratin. You know-greens awash in Creamy Farro and Montegrappa Cheese. Nothing says 'eat your Brocoli' like being paired with fine cheese. The intimate setting of Frances. Tables are very close. Not the place to come to share secrets or have an blow up with one's lover. A place to stare into another's eyes dreamily? Absolutely. (Photo: Jennifer Yin)
Post coffee I donned my bib for one more adventure-dessert. As any pal of mine will attest I have a sweet tooth. It was a hard decision what with Chocolate Pecan Pie, Lumberjack Cake and 'Pets du Nonne' tempting me like strumpets with their wares. I settled on the 'Pets', Fritters smitten with Vermouth Glazed Citrus and Whipped Ricotta. Ahh.
Prices were competitive for an establishment of this caliber and I got out for under $70 bucks. It's not an everyday meal for this blue collar guys wallet, but, it was a great treat.
It was a special meal and I will treasure it's taste memory for weeks to come. If you're looking for a neighborhood destination that is beyond compare I can't recommend Frances more.
Directions to Frances taken from their website.
In the Top Chef wars of San Francisco where winners are awarded coveted Michelin Stars and losers close doors and wander away licking their Yelp inflicted wounds the Castro's Frances (3870 17th Street, between Pond & Noe) continues to dominate all other neighborhood contenders with its quiet grace and stunning food.
The Castro is packed to the gills with eateries offering every cuisine known to tickle the fickle palette of our City's accomplished diners. San Franciscan's love to brag that if our sky was composed of restaurants that have been awarded the golden seal of a Michelin Star our sky would outshine the sun.
In truth forty-two restaurants were awarded stars in the greater Bay Area for the 2013 San Francisco Michelin Guide as was noted here by Grub Street SF blog in Oct 2012. Frances is the only one within the Castro thats been on the receiving end of that accolade of late.
