Bay Area/ San Francisco/ Arts & Culture
Published on April 11, 2016
Inside Old Station 21, San Francisco's Landmark Victorian Firehouse

Old Station 21 on Oak St (Photos: Ben Zotto/Hoodline)

Behind the graceful Victorian façade at 1152 Oak St. (near Broderick) sits the oldest firehouse still under the ownership of the San Francisco Fire Department. "OId 21" was constructed in 1893, and despite many uses across the decades, has seen only minimal changes to its structure.  

This building was the home of Engine Company 21 (not 27, as the current signage on the front implies) during its active years from 1893 to 1958. Truck Company 6 was also located here, until 1916. The firehouse served the Western Addition, Panhandle, Haight, and Lone Mountain areas.

Celebrating the move to motorized apparatus in 1915. (Photo: SFPL)

We introduced readers to the firehouse back in 2014, but we didn't take a look inside, or look at what could be next for the unique building. 

Though the doors are rarely open these days, and the building is currently used for storage, the Fire Prevention Division of the SFFD is slated to move its offices into the building soon, says Bill Koenig of the Guardians of the City, where he is a trustee. Koenig himself served in the SFFD from 1970 to 2000, and was kind enough to give us a tour of the landmark structure.

Ground floor interior, looking north from doors. (Photo: Ben Zotto/Hoodline)

The big doors at the front of the firehouse open into a cavernous wood-floored chamber that takes up nearly the whole building. This is where the engine and truck apparatus were kept. There are wooden crew lockers along the right side of the main floor. And yes, there are fire poles, gleaming as they rise up through octagonal holes in the high ceiling.

A steep iron staircase curls up to the upper floor, which featured a central dormitory and officers' quarters at the front. The beds are gone, but lockers are still there, under a huge skylight. Everywhere are old photos, piles of boxes, antique equipment, and other historical artifacts and ephemera. (The building has been used most recently as a storage annex for Museum historic materials.)

Iron staircase and artifacts.

Storage. (Photos: Ben Zotto/Hoodline)

The firehouse at 1152 Oak St. opened its doors shortly before the California Midwinter International Exposition of 1894 kicked off nearby at Golden Gate Park. The apparatus housed here was initially all horse-drawn.

When the massive April 1906 earthquake started several devastating fires, the alarm system failed but the men of Engine Company 21 went immediately to work. They sought out and fought the Hayes Valley conflagrations, remaining on-duty for 54 hours.

The horse-drawn equipment was retired in favor of motorized alternatives in 1915, as part of a changeover across the city.

Seriously elaborate holiday decorations in 1948 (left) and 1950 (right). (Photos: SFPL left, right)

After Engine Company 21—personnel and equipment—decamped in 1958 for its current home a few blocks north on Grove Street, the firehouse on Oak Street was used for a series of departmental uses: a clothing depot, equipment holding for the high-pressure water system, and during the 1990s, the gym and fitness center for  the Fire Department. 

Blue whale mural in 1976. (Photo: SFPL and courtesy Richard Hansen)

A giant painting of a blue whale adorned the western wall of the firehouse from the 1970s until the early 2000s. The mural was rendered at near-life-size, and was fully visible to passing traffic, according to Raymond E. Dito's firehouse almanac

Changes came in the early 2000s. The Fire Department made moves to divest the building, but local community groups successfully campaigned to keep the landmark firehouse in public hands. Its façade underwent significant restoration and repainting, bringing back wood signage and arch doors. The whale mural was hidden by the large residential building that sprung up to the building's left. 

Upstairs at Old 21 is the former dormitory space (Photo: Ben Zotto/Hoodline)

"Old 21" was designed by local architecture firm Henrikson & Mahoney as one of a set of three sibling firehouses—all drawn up together and built at the same time. The second one, since demolished, stood on Folsom Street in the Mission. The third is still standing at 3022 Washington St. in Pacific Heights. (That house was sold by the city at auction after its engine company relocated in 1963, and it's been a private residence ever since.)

Old 21's surviving "sibling" at 3022 Washington St., now a private residence. (Photo: Ben Zotto/Hoodline)

Passersby may have noticed that the composition of Old 21's façade is unusually elegant, with the hose tower at the west roof providing a pleasing kick of asymmetry. Today, that tower also steps down the roofline heights from the taller uphill residential complex to the shorter buildings downhill, neatly stitching together the local skyline.

Don't be fooled: the "27" is a goof; this was the home of Engine 21. (Photo: Ben Zotto/Hoodline)

Unfortunately, the interior of Old 21 is not accessible to the public; it falls short of a number of building codes in its current condition. If your interest in San Francisco fire history is piqued, however, the Guardians of the City maintains the volunteer-run SFFD Fire Museum and Safety Learning Center in Laurel Heights (655 Presidio Avenue; Th-Sun 1-4pm; 415-558-3546; Free, $5 suggested donation; call ahead to verify schedule).