Houston's love affair with diverse flavors is about to be rekindled as the long-missed Hong Kong Food Street hints at a grand return after years lying dormant, while newcomer Benny Chows injects Texas swagger into traditional Cantonese fare. Word broke on social media that Hong Kong Food Street, a one-time staple in Asiatown, is making a comeback with a "It's a date. 2024." tease, sparking a flurry of anticipation from local food aficionados and no doubt rattling the cages of competing establishments, according to a Chron report.
On the flip side, Benny Chows, the latest gastro brainchild of New York transplant Ben Berg, opened its doors on Washington Avenue back in June with a bold flair of BBQ egg rolls and Texas-twisted dim sum—despite some initial pushback on its marketing, suggesting it overshadowed Houston's authentic Chinese culinary scene, per a Houston Eater article. Berg, of the Berg Hospitality lineage with a retinue of popular Houston eateries under his belt, has steered his personal exposure to New York’s diverse eats towards the Lone Star State, essentially blending familiar eastern gastronomy with a western twist with creations like Truth BBQ's brisket-filled smoked egg rolls and Holy Trinity fried rice, nodding to Hill Country's barbecue prowess.
Meanwhile, the suspense builds as Hong Kong Food Street keeps fans on tenterhooks. Details about their opening and location are under wraps, but the tease alone has been enough to stir up a veritable pot of excitement among loyal patrons; they fondly remember nights indulging in their siu mei—a spread of roasted meats beloved in Cantonese cuisine—which once upon a time elevated the district's food game, "It was on the nicer end, as far as Chinese restaurants go," Terry Wong, a pivotal figure in the local culinary circuit and Facebook group admin mentioned in a conversation highlighted by Chron. A once-vibrant hub for roasted delicacies had shuttered in 2020 under the weight of infrastructural woes, and an interim Korean enterprise had staked its claim on the locale, leaving HK Food Street seeming a distant memory until now.
Benny Chows, despite initial hiccups over its approach, seems resolute in carving out its own niche within Houston's Cantonese dining tableau. Shirong Mei, a chef whose roots stretch back to culinary stints across Asia, stands at its helm, leading the charge with a 55-item strong menu where diners can find dishes garnished with flair—like a whole lobster and a 7-pound Jurgielewicz duck primed over three days. Berg's approach has been unapologetically multi-layered, aiming to recreate a storied New York-style Cantonese space amid a city steeped in rich dining traditions spread over Asiatown in the Bellaire area and Katy Asia Town, the gritty mix of old-school nostalgia and modern sensibilities illuminated in every element from tea-infused cocktails to hand-painted wallpapers, as he revealed in an Eater Houston glimpse into his process. "This is something I’m excited about," Berg declared, maintaining that passion steered the ship of his latest venture.
