Christopher Cullum, a name synonymous with San Antonio's rich culinary tradition, has been cast into the limelight as a 2024 semifinalist for Best Chef: Texas by the James Beard Foundation. Cullum is the culinary artist behind Cullum’s Attaboy, a restaurant deeply rooted in the city's gastronomical history. He shows to easily navigate the balance between dedication to his craft and family life, often cooking simple dishes for his kids despite them being picky eaters. "We did try blue cheese recently and it was not a success," Cullum revealed to the San Antonio Report. Despite the fame, he maintains that such honors are not the pinnacle of his achievements. "I feel very, very, very whole, because Attaboy is open, it is what it is today, and we celebrate San Antonio history and tradition," Cullum told the publication.
Cullum’s Attaboy is no fleeting trend. Since its opening on the well-trodden Strip, it has become a charming homage to the city's yesteryears. Not content to merely replicate the past, the King’s Court spot infuses old-school vibes with genuine affection for its humble beginnings. Cullum's approach capitalizes on local history, without allowing nostalgia to overshadow taste or quality. "I’m trying to show what has been awesome all along," Cullum said, according to an interview with CultureMap San Antonio.
The ambience at Cullum's establishment evokes a prewar jazz club, reminiscent of his days dishwashing at his father's River Walk spot, the Landing. The menu at Cullum's Attaboy stays true to simple, yet savory fare, eschewing modern dining's penchant for the overly ornate. Authenticity is a key ingredient, with nods to historical eateries like La Louisiane and a tribute to Spudnuts, a mid-century doughnut shop once prevalent across America.
Among other San Antonio chefs recognized by the James Beard Foundation, Cullum stands out for his heartfelt connection to the city's dining scene. He ensures to carry forward a culinary legacy that began with his late father, legendary cornetist Jim Cullum Jr. "I wanted to express that part of my culinary education," Cullum confidently stated in his CultureMap interview. Whether it's the iconic Attaboy burger or a dish hailing from a bygone era, Cullum's work pays respect to a history rich in flavor and community spirit – a fitting entrée into Texas' venerated circle of celebrated chefs.
