The curtain is falling on a chapter of Los Angeles cocktail culture, as The Varnish prepares to serve its last drinks on July 3, 2024. The esteemed speakeasy, tucked away inside Cole’s in Downtown LA, announced its impending closure on Instagram, marking the end of a 15-year era that reshaped the city's bar scene. Eric Alperin, Sasha Petraske, and Cedd Moses were the masterminds behind the venture, blending the ethos of a classic speakeasy with a modern twist when they founded the bar in 2009.
The legacy of The Varnish can be traced back to Petraske's earlier success with Milk & Honey in New York City, regarded as a transformative force in mixology. After Alperin honed his craft under Petraske at Milk & Honey and Little Branch, the duo, alongside seasoned LA bar owner Moses, brought their vision to life in a former storage room of the historic Cole’s establishment, according to Eater LA. What followed was a cocktail revolution, with The Varnish offering an atmosphere less rigid than its New York predecessor, sans strictures on attire but maintaining a semblance of decorum with rules that discouraged vulgarity and raucous conduct.
Priced at $11 on opening, The Varnish's cocktail menu presented timeless concoctions like the Business, Hot Buttered Rum, and Remembering the Maine, as well as the Bartender’s Choice — a nod to the adventurous drinker. The speakeasy's atmosphere recalled the 1920s, filled with jazz melodies and vintage décor in a space so intimate, it became a celebrated spot for a nightcap among patrons, including the late critic Jonathan Gold.
The story of The Varnish is not just a tale of mixed drinks, it's a snapshot of Los Angeles's evolving urban fabric. With its clandestine allure and commitment to the cocktail craft, it stood as a pillar in the Downtown community for patrons and mixologists alike. As the countdown to its last call begins, patrons will no doubt flock to the dimly lit haunt for one last homage to the institution that, in many ways, poured new life into LA's nightlife.
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