The culinary scene in California has a new champion in Lord Maynard Llera, the chef-owner of Kuya Lord in Hollywood, who bagged the prestigious James Beard Award for Best Chef: California on June 10. Known for melding his classical training with the tastes of his Filipino heritage, Llera's restaurant serves up reimagined Filipino classics that have now been given the ultimate nod of approval by one of the most esteemed gastronomic organizations in the industry.
Starting as a pop-up before finding a permanent home at 5003 Melrose Avenue, Kuya Lord was cited for its distinctive approach to Filipino cuisine, a journey that began with Llera's roots in Lucena City, Quezon Province, Philippines, according to KTLA. The dining venue, which Llera refers to as an "elevated fast-casual restaurant," honors his childhood but through a lens polished by years of professional culinary experience. Notably, Los Angeles Times critic Bill Addison once described Llera's cooking as "a gripping new expressionist of Filipino cooking," a sentiment that has been resoundingly echoed by the James Beard Foundation's acknowledgment.
In the competition for the accolade, Llera was up against other California chefs, standing out in a field that included Geoff Davis, Rogelio Garcia, Tara Monsod, and Buu "Billy" Ngo. The recognition by the Foundation is not just a personal victory but also casts a spotlight on Los Angeles' Filipino dining scene, joining other notable restaurants like Kasama in Chicago and Musang in Seattle in gaining national attention. As reported by LA Eater, which closely followed the announcements at the 2024 ceremony held in Chicago.
This acknowledgment carries significant weight, not only for Kuya Lord but for the wider Filipino American community. "It's just surreal," Llera said of his win, reflecting on his two-decade-long journey from his arrival in the U.S. to becoming a restaurateur, as per Laist. His story, from the pop-up origins during the pandemic to final establishment, is a testament, to the perseverance and adaptability often required of immigrants chasing the American Dream.
