Manhattan's food scene just got a global infusion with the opening of Papa San, a Japanese Peruvian izakaya situated at Hudson Yards' the Spiral. As Eater NY first reported, this new venture from the minds behind Llama Inn is expected to bring a flavorful combination of ceviches, onigiri, and robatayaki-cooked skewers to the table starting Tuesday, February 18. In a twist of multicultural culinary fusion, Papa San features a "whole chicken experience," carving up the bird in a number of ways from bone broth to skewered crispy skin.
Tapping into the foodie world's ever-growing appetite for Peruvian flavors, the restaurant seeks to explore Peruvian Nikkei cuisine, a testament to the country's rich biodiversity and cultural diversity. After foraging their way through the industry, chefs Juan Correa, Erik Ramirez, and executive chef Sergio Nakayoshi have created a dining experience that reflects Peru's gastronomical boom—a movement that, according to The New York Times, seems long overdue for many Peruvians.
Peru's rising star can be partially credited to trailblazers like Gastón Acurio, who recently reminisced about introducing ceviche to foreign palates, with a wave of new attention hitting the cuisine. One of his many established restaurant chains, La Mar, now spans globally from Dubai to the American Dream Mall in New Jersey. Acurio, along with other notable Peruvian chefs, has been pivotal in transforming Peru into what The New York Times described as "a world-class destination for culinary thrill-seekers."
The acknowledgment is far-reaching. Besides gastronomic accolades, the United Nations placed Peruvian ceviche on UNESCO's list of Intangible Cultural Heritage traditions. A boost for raw-fish dishes like ceviche, which have coasted on the global popularity of sushi, led to explorations of the Nikkei cuisine, represented in Papa San's latest offerings. Meanwhile, other Latin American cities elevate the region's gastronomy, asserting a place in the esteemed rankings alongside Lima, as detailed by The New York Times.
In a blend of tradition and innovation, Peruvian American chefs continue to forge ahead, redefining authenticity by marrying Peruvian classics with local flair. Erik Ramirez, specifically highlighted in Eater NY's profile of Papa San, has built on the culinary legacy of his upbringing with the success of Llama Inn and other satellite restaurants. But it's not just about nostalgia; it's about the narrative—a story of cultural assimilation and culinary excellence now being told in the heart of Manhattan.
