The Upper East Side of Manhattan, known for its fine dining, is now a go-to spot for authentic South Indian and Sri Lankan flavors with the arrival of the restaurant Lungi. Recognized by the Michelin Guide mere months after opening its doors, Lungi has quickly become a touchstone for food enthusiasts eager to explore the distinct tastes from the coastal regions of South India and the island country of Sri Lanka.
Chef and co-owner Albin Vincent, a native of Kanyakumari, India, brings a personal touch to Lungi with recipes passed down from his grandmother and mother, "I learned from my grandmother's cooking and my mom's cooking. I was trying to help them, you know, while they are cooking. And that's where I learned and started cooking like this, since I was a kid," Vincent told ABC7NY. He explained the common ground and the diverse range of spices that distinguish these two neighboring cuisines, with Sri Lankan fare tending to be more intensely spiced. The chef highlights the use of black pepper, cardamom, curry leaves, and coconut as core ingredients, a homage to the plentiful coconut trees in his homeland.
The Michelin Bib Gourmand praised Lungi for its quality produce and meats, offering a nod to its value for money. Vincent's reaction to this commendation was one of pleasant surprise. "I was very happy. This is something, you know, I didn't expect," he said in an interview with ABC7NY. The dishes at Lungi echo Vincent's early life and the culinary experiences that shaped his approach to cooking. One standout item is the Deafman Shop Tawa Fish Fry, an endeavor to recreate the fried fish from a popular vendor in his hometown.
The Sunday brunch service at Lungi has been an especially popular draw, featuring an array of dishes such as curry, vegetables, yogurt, fish fry, appetizers, biriyani, and sambar all presented on a banana leaf, in what Vincent described to ABC7NY as reminiscent of a wedding feast or a tasting menu. "Back home when you go for wedding and big feast, they serve. So it's kind of like a tasting menu, you have a lot of options to try different dishes," Vincent said.
Transitioning from its former identity as Imli, a restaurant that offered a contemporary take on Indian food, Lungi is Vinvent's pivot toward heritage cuisine, joined by partners and chefs from the coastal states of Tamil Nadu and Kerala, as detailed by NY Eater. The menu is a balanced mix of South Indian and Sri Lankan dishes, with a 60-40 split favoring South Indian offerings. Local seafood and robust spices like Byadgi chilies, green Indian chilies, and black pepper are prominent in their dishes.
Lungi's customers, some of whom visit multiple times a week, indicate the restaurant's growing popularity. "The people are happy. People all over the neighborhood are supporting us a lot, and they're like keep coming back," Vincent told ABC7NY.
