Upper West Side Bids Farewell to Malaysian Gem Kancil Amid Rising Costs

The Upper West Side's taste of Malaysia is vanishing as Kancil is set to close its doors this weekend, after a brief six-month presence. The Malaysian eatery, located at 434 Amsterdam Avenue at West 81st Street, is shutting down due to "rising operating costs," shared Salil Mehta, the restaurateur behind the venture. Mehta, who helms Fungi Hospitality Group, had launched the restaurant in November 2024 alongside Chef Simpson Wong, offering distinctive Malaysian dishes and an innovative cocktail program where guests concocted personalized drinks, as detailed by Eater.

Despite its short-lived operation, Kancil was born from Mehta’s collaboration with Wong, a seasoned chef with deep roots in Southeast Asian flavors. Wong, who introduced New York diners to the cuisines of Vietnam, Thailand, and his native Malaysia, has been a stalwart in the city's food scene, with stints at the likes of Cafe Asean and Chomp Chomp. In an interview with Resy, Mehta noted their ambition for a place, "truly Malaysian," and praised Wong for his refreshed perspective following a hiatus from the restaurant world.

The endeavor at Kancil showcased Wong's culinary prowess, one that transformed conventional Malaysian street snacks with modern twists and local, organic ingredients. A curated selection of low-intervention wines and concoctions from the innovative cocktail program complemented Wong’s creations, highlighting the interactive element that was a hallmark of the dining experience at Kancil.

As Kancil bows out, the New York culinary landscape also grapples with the wider impact of tariffs on imported goods. Veteran candy shop, Economy Candy, has expressed concerns over the imminent surge in prices driven by these tariffs, reported NBC New York. "It’s going to be a struggle," said owner Mitchell Cohen, as he lamented the increased costs that will affect both international sweets and American confections dependent on imported ingredients, as mentioned by Eater.