Chef Russell Klein is taking one of Meritage’s runaway hits and putting it center stage, spinning the restaurant’s beloved steak frites into its own concept through a limited Wednesday night pop-up and a planned standalone, Steak Frites by Meritage. The fixed price setup is straightforward and tight: a choice of steak or mussels, family-style bread and salad, and bottomless fries for $32. Klein says he is using the pop-up’s strong demand to gauge whether a simpler neighborhood bistro could fly outside of downtown St. Paul.
According to KSTP, the pop-up leans hard into the classic steak and fries combo and is hosted at Meritage in downtown St. Paul. The TV segment frames the launch as an unfussy, crowd-pleasing move that trims the usual menu sprawl in favor of one shared dinner format.
What’s on the menu
The pop-up’s $32 prix fixe includes warm bread, a family-style house salad, your pick of steak frites or moules frites, and all the fries you can handle. Drinks are intentionally limited, with wine, beer, and a short list of cocktails running around $11, and desserts stick to simple comforts like ice cream sundaes sold à la carte, according to the project’s site, Steak Frites by Meritage.
Pop-up runs and a possible spinoff
The initial January run sold out and built up long waitlists, giving Klein enough confidence to pursue a permanent version. The Minnesota Star Tribune reports that he is aiming for a 2026 opening and is scouting suburban locations, with a plan to swap Meritage’s hanger steak for a more affordable culotte cut to keep prices in check.
Meritage’s role in downtown St. Paul
Meritage has anchored downtown St. Paul since 2007, known for its oyster bar and French brasserie-style menu, where steak frites has long been a top seller. The restaurant lists its address as 410 Saint Peter Street and directs diners to book through Resy; details are on the Meritage site.
How to try it
Steak Frites returned in March for select Wednesday nights, and tables are disappearing quickly. The January pop-ups booked up fast, and only limited seats are shown for upcoming dates, according to Pioneer Press. For now, reservations run through Meritage’s usual system or the Steak Frites website, and diners can call the restaurant at 651-222-5670 for the latest availability.
The project fits into a broader move toward stripped-down steak and fries spots that trade giant menus for speed and value. The Star Tribune notes that similar formats have spread in other cities, and Klein’s version aims to blend that efficiency with Meritage’s long-standing commitment to classic French cooking.
