A&M BBQ, a small but much-loved barbecue joint on South Main Street in Sebastopol, is staring down an uncertain future after zoning enforcement actions and weeks of neighborhood complaints about heavy wood smoke. Pitmaster Kris Austin has signaled that the business may need to relocate as the dispute heads toward a city hearing.
City staff have issued enforcement notices to the restaurant for operating large commercial smokers in a zone that city documents say does not allow that equipment. A second enforcement letter arrived on Thursday, raising the stakes for a possible shutdown or relocation, according to The Press Democrat. The outlet notes that the property is zoned for commercial-office use, which allows small-scale restaurants but not the type of outdoor barbecue smokers currently in place.
Neighbors raise air-quality alarms
Residents uphill from the restaurant say tall smokestacks and industrial smokers have been sending wood smoke into their neighborhood, and they point to measurable spikes in PM2.5 on PurpleAir monitors. In a letter filed with the city, environmental engineer Megan Kaun described overnight PM2.5 spikes she says hit the 100 to 200 range and urged the council to enforce an April cease-and-desist order, according to City of Sebastopol public records.
Neighbors quoted at a council meeting said they woke up to smoke and were unable to open their windows. The Sebastopol Times and city documents detail those health concerns along with the city’s early enforcement steps.
An enforcement gap the air district didn't foresee
Neighbors and city correspondence point to a regulatory gray area. Recent Bay Area air-quality rules have focused on controlling emissions from charbroilers and on hood-filtration systems inside restaurants, while the kind of large wood-fired smokers A&M installed are less clearly addressed, especially in dense downtown settings. Rulemaking materials from the BAAQMD highlight a technical focus on charbroilers and filtration technologies, which Kaun’s letter argues leaves a gap when it comes to industrial-size smokers.
Supporters press the council
The conflict has split the town. City public-comment files include dozens of letters backing A&M and urging the council to give the business more time or help it relocate, and staff told reporters they have received more than 70 letters in support. The issue is set for the City Council agenda on Tuesday, when staff expect to take public comment and lay out enforcement options.
Meeting materials for the June 2 session are available on the City of Sebastopol website. The Press Democrat has also outlined the volume of public comment and the upcoming hearing.
What happens next
City planners say the deadlines tied to a prior order have passed, and staff, working with the city attorney, are preparing additional enforcement correspondence. Interim Planning Director Jane Riley told the Sebastopol Times that the city has been working with the owners for months and that removing the remaining large smoker is now the primary focus of enforcement.
Bottom line
A&M BBQ has grown into a regional draw since opening in town, but the current fight underscores the tension between lively downtown small businesses and neighborhood livability. Pitmaster Kris Austin has asked supporters on Instagram to send letters urging the city to grant time to relocate, and has said the shop is actively looking for a new home while the council and city staff weigh enforcement and possible compromises. Posts and calls for support are collected on Kris Austin’s Instagram.
