The culinary landscape of Houston just got a serious jolt of je ne sais quoi with the recent unveiling of Cocody Restaurant and Bar in River Oaks. Lionel Debon and David Denis, the chefs operating partners, are redefining fine dining by marrying opulence with a nimble modernity that screams innovation on a silver platter, according to an article in the Houston Chronicle.
With the doors now flung open at 1971 W. Gray Cocody is making a splash with an interior design that could make Gatsby blush. Picture crystal lights by the hundreds casting that soft, flattering glow, art deco touches that tip their hat to the 1930s, and a free-standing metal bar making quite the statement thanks to Winn Wittman Architects and Nina Magon's combined genius. Strutting culinary stuff eschewed by typical French fussiness, the restaurant intends to serve up sublime food without all the ceremonial rigmarole. "Fine dining in Houston 20 years ago was a steakhouse," David Denis told the Houston Chronicle, signaling a tidal shift in local culinary expectations.
The gastronomic pair, Denis and Debon, aren't strangers to the Houston food scene or to each other, reuniting in the kitchen after carving a path at the now-closed Le Mistral in West Houston 18 years ago. These two maestros of haute cuisine are setting out a spread that's as varied as it is global, because when have salmon and berries ever cared about borders? The new hotspot is dishing out fanciful presentations that go the distance, from the chef-driven smoky note in a Patagonia Smoked Salmon and Tartare Duo to the local twang in a Texan Blackened Red Snapper, as the Houston Press reported.
The venue flaunts a state-of-the-art kitchen where Debon, who cut his teeth in Michelin-starred European establishments, and Denis, with his own renowned Houston track record, aim to transfer their knowledge to the next generation of chefs. Now, for those keeping a scorecard, Edwin and Edith Bosso bring their own sprinkle of international zest to this venture. She has her Haute Couture degree, and he has his globe-trotting past, from the Ivory Coast to Rice University, and they are just not letting this be your grandmère's French bistro.
Artisans, another French culinary masterpiece, just re-established its roots at 5745 Westheimer after a decade-long sojourn at the previous Midtown location. Chef Jacques Fox, who garners respect on an intercontinental scale, is hosting diners at the new Galleria-area address, a space once iconic as the Westheimer location of James Coney Island, now transformed into top-tier dining elegance. Keeping it casual and yet oh-so-Houston, 1891 American Eatery & Bar cracked open its doors recently at 702 E. 11th, bringing in flavors that Jason Gould, the operation partner, fished out from his expansive, Michelin-decorated career.
