Uptown Oakland experiences recent closure of Duende, a popular purveyor of Spanish cuisine helmed by Chef Paul Canales, who recently close another within just two years, according SFGate. The restaurant, which had been a staple in the area for over a decade, shut its doors on June 30, as confirmed by Canales in a statement to Eater SF. "We had a great run," Canales reflected, acknowledging the success and appreciation for the journey, yet he also conceded, "but it's just not sustainable to keep going."
Canales cited a myriad of reasons for the restaurant's closure. Chief among them was the evolving consumer habits post-pandemic, which have seen a marked shift towards food delivery and takeout. Unfortunately, this shift did not align with Duende's dining model, which struggled to adapt to these market changes. As customers leaned more on these services, which never really took off for Duende, he acknowledged to Eater SF, "It’s been a super challenging business environment."
The chef also delved into more nuanced local issues, touching on the sensitive topic of crime in Oakland. While hesitant to blame crime directly for the restaurant's difficulties, Canales suggested it was a contributing factor, and did not shy away from expressing his stance on the community’s needs. "I live in Oakland, I love it here," Caniles says, "but the city needs to get their act together and they need to get serious about taking significant action to support the business community and their citizens," Canales told Eater SF.
Amidst the hard-edged realities of business, Canales also shared a heartfelt message on Instagram, accentuating the human connections that made Duende special. "It’s always been about the people who animated it," he wrote. Canales extended deep thanks to everyone involved, from families to performers, who together made the restaurant "HELLA Duende!!" From the early days when he watched from the mezzanine, to as recent as last month, Canales remembered telling himself to be grateful "because it won’t always be this way" — a sentiment that now rings with the finality of Duende's end.
Opened in 2013, Duende quickly became celebrated for its unique blend of regional Spanish flavors and local ingredients. Known for its paella, tapas, and lively flamenco nights, the venue has been a canvas for cultural expression and culinary delights, a staple that the Uptown Oakland community will surely miss. With the restaurant's closure, another chapter in the Bay Area's rich gastronomic story has come to an end.
