The culinary scene in Houston is stirring once more with Esquire's shining spotlight on Late August, the freshest venture by the city's esteemed chef Chris Williams. As detailed by the Houston Chronicle, the inventive eatery infuses African-American and Mexican cuisines, earning itself a spot in the Esquire list of Best New Restaurants in America for 2024.
Sprung from the encountered minds of Chris Williams and executive chef Sergio Hidalgo, Late August unfolds in the repurposed Ion building, and it's not just Williams' sleekest setup but a playful, accessible nod to two rich culinary traditions, these revelations include a dazzling array of dishes such as gumbo and cabrito stew Esquire highlights the collaboration between Williams and Hidalgo as an example of "bravura acts of culinary invention." Dallas's yakitori standout Mābo also wove its way into the hearts and palate of Esquire, continuing Texas' savory saga of culinary conquests, according to the Houston Chronicle.
Amidst this celebration of gastronomy, another Texan locale, Nicosi in San Antonio, stood out with its pastry prowess. Tavel Bristol-Joseph and Karla Espinosa, dubbed Pastry Chefs of the Year by Esquire, bring an ardent dedication to dessert that eschews the commonplace, according to the Houston CultureMap, their 20-seat establishment offers an enigmatic eight-course tasting menu that shuns both photography and menus to envelop diners in an aura of mystery and immersion in the moment.
While Esquire's list may have leaned towards coastal cities, with New York City and Los Angeles clinching the most recognitions, the heart of Texas made a notable ripple with Houston's Late August and Dallas's Mābo showing that the state's vibrant and diverse culinary landscape can hold its ground, bridging flavors and bringing communities together inside the storied walls of their establishments. Late August notably celebrates the synergy of African American and Mexican culinary traditions, with dishes like citrus pork confit with mustard-and-collard-greens masa catching the eye and taste buds of food enthusiasts.
Recognition for culinary innovation isn't new for Williams, as his establishment is lauded as Houston’s only Black-owned restaurant in the Michelin Guide with a Recommended designation. It appears that the city of Houston continues to serve as a melting pot of creativity where chefs like Williams and establishments like Late August thrive by redefining and exploring the diversity of American cuisine.
