After a months-long absence, Maria Marquez, better known around the Bay as Mama Cuca, is back in San Jose with her charcoal grill fired up and smelling like mesquite. She is once again serving Sonora-style tacos to hungry crowds, with her mesquite-fired carne asada and handmade flour tortillas drawing the faithful right back in. The Taco Yaqui, packed with smoky steak, grilled Anaheim pepper and melty cheese, is already pulling in lines, marking a fresh chapter for a homegrown vendor who has repeatedly pivoted to stay on the street-food map.
Marquez has hauled her mobile grill up from Hayward and is now plating mesquite-grilled carne asada alongside quesadillas, bacon-wrapped burritos and chorreadas, according to the San Francisco Chronicle. The outlet singled out the Taco Yaqui, finished with fire-roasted salsa, lime and pickled onions, as a standout on the menu.
From a Home Stand to a Permitted Truck
Marquez first grabbed attention selling tortillas and tacos out of a lot in East Oakland, but city inspectors ordered the operation to stop in mid-2023 after it was flagged for operating without the proper permits, as SFGATE reported. Determined to keep cooking, she launched a fundraising effort and later came back as a permitted food truck in February 2024, per coverage in Eater SF.
What to Order
The Taco Yaqui is still the headliner, but the bacon-wrapped burrito and chorreadas also get rave notices from regulars. Maria’s flour tortillas, thin, slightly blistered and chewy, helped her go viral, and that same house-made touch is back in force, according to the San Francisco Chronicle.
Practical Details
Marquez has typically announced pop-ups and truck stops via social posts and tends to sell out on busy nights, so hours can vary from week to week. Followers have used those posts to track locations in the past, according to SFGATE. For now, the return means San Jose has a rare, full-on Sonoran taco option back in the mix, one that plenty of diners have been missing.
