Popular Howard Street fixture Ted’s Market and Delicatessen will be celebrating its 50th anniversary next summer, which is no small feat for a family-owned and operated business.
Originally opened by Theodore and Penelope Zouzounis in 1967, the store is now run by their son David Zouzounis and his daughter, Miriam Zouzounis, making it a true third generation business. Up until recently, 84-year-old matriarch "Penny" still did paperwork for Ted's. “She's most well-rounded women I’ve ever known” says Miriam of her grandmother. “Her customers were her family."
Although western SoMa has evolved since Ted’s first opened, the Zouzounis family's commitment to their menu has remained unchanged. “We are still producing quality food at a working person’s price range," says Miriam. "You can still get a ready-made sandwich for around $2.50.” The roast turkey is said to be the most popular item on the menu, though Yelpers give rave reviews for the entire sandwich selection.
The Zouzounis family has been witness to the changes in the neighborhood. At the time that Ted’s opened, the area was known as a largely Filipino District, but evolved to become a center of the city's gay culture. Ted’s was the very first vendor to sell food at the Folsom Street fair in 1984, and when the AIDS crisis hit the community in the 1980s, Miriam says, "My father saw his customers and friends becoming sick. He had to I.D. bodies because these were people who were left by their families. It was a hard time for this area."
Not all memories are as painful. David remembers making thousands of avocado and cheeses sandwiches for a Grateful Dead concert. Ted's Market and Deli provided large quantities of backstage food for concerts, partially due to the fact that music promoter Bill Graham's office was located across the street from Ted's. For a time, Ted's even provided the apples for the iconic apple barrel at The Fillmore.
According to Miriam, Ted's is adapting. "Our customer base reflects both worlds now," she explains. "We have auto body shop customers, Muni drivers and now we have the tech workers, too."
Ted's is looking into setting up a new ordering system and energy efficient refrigeration system soon, which can be a pricy endeavor. But like the owners of other small markets in the city, Miriam says she worries that the recently passed cigarette tax law will put added strain on small liquor stores in San Francisco.
When asked about her hopes for the future, Miriam says she wants her father to take more time off. Ted's is currently open seven days a week, from 6am to 6pm Monday through Friday, 8am to 5pm on Saturdays and 8:15am to 3pm on Sundays. (It is, however, closed on Thanksgiving and Christmas Day.)
But, Miriam says, the hard work is worth it. "Seeing people really enjoy the food and the atmosphere is the best part of being here," she says, adding that the store's nearly half-century of business is a point of pride.
"It's a good feeling when people come in and say, 'I remember your grandpa'."
