The culinary world is witnessing a poignant moment as L'Échelle, the anticipated bistro by the late chef Naomi Pomeroy, emerges onto the Portland dining scene amid a backdrop of deep loss and homage to her legacy. Luke Dirks, Pomeroy's long-time business partner, is spearheading the opening of the pop-up restaurant, which was previously set to mark Pomeroy's vibrant re-entry into full-service dining establishments before her untimely passing.
According to a recent report by Portland Monthly, L'Échelle takes up residence at the former Woodsman Tavern space at 4537 SE Division St, channeling both Pomeroy's spirit and Dirks' dedication as a restaurateur, Dirks and Pomeroy had been planning the project together before she died, and while the sadness of her absence still resonates, the opening represents a commitment to fulfill what was a shared dream. The restaurant's beginnings in this format reflect Pomeroy's well-known preference for intimate and personal dining experiences, a sensibility that Dirks aims to preserve in the restaurant's ambiance and operations.
Eater Portland has shed light on Dirks’ intentions, stating, "Naomi would have wanted us to press on to open the restaurant, and we want to follow through on the vision she was so instrumental in creating," he told Axios Portland. With Pomeroy's reputation of pioneering pop-up dining experiences, Dirks is navigating the opening in a way that captures the essence of her influence. L'Échelle will initially operate four nights a week and feature a menu of light French-inspired fare harking back to Pomeroy's culinary inclinations.
The impact Pomeroy left behind extends beyond her restaurant doors, she was a dedicated advocate for independent restaurateurs, playing a significant role in the establishment of a national restaurant coalition that addressed industry-wide concerns and provided support during the pandemic, her commitment to the community and her knack for fostering a home-like atmosphere in her dining ventures has not gone unnoticed, as she was lauded "consistently championed Portland and the people that live here," as per KATU.
