After the quake of 1989 damaged the Central Freeway overpass that ran through Hayes Valley, the movement to revitalize the neighborhood began.
But long before that, visitors of Hayes Valley -- the opera- and symphony-goers, the artists themselves, the city officials and administrators -- roamed streets known more for their drug dealers and prostitutes than top-notch restaurants.
Enter Patricia "Patty" Unterman and her partners, who had an idea.
Patty Unterman
"We were coming over here to go to performances and there was no place to eat," Patty recalls. "And our notion was, we absolutely have to have a place, where we can eat before the performances."
Thus, an idea led to a vision, and a vision led to action.
"One of my partners then came [to Hayes Valley], and in one day found this location, in one day made the deal, and we started building. So the whole purpose of the restaurant was to serve a need, to serve a niche, the whole menu, the whole idea of it, the whole being of the restaurant. It was started to let people have something really fresh, really delicious, made to order, that we could turn out really quickly, in order to serve them before they went to the performances."
Hayes Street Grill, located at 320 Hayes Street, opened its doors in 1979. For 34 years now, the restaurant has stayed true to its ethos. Only fresh fish is served at the seafood-focused restaurant, and the menu is written twice a day, once for lunch, and once for dinner, based on the available supply of fresh seafood, produce, and dairy.
Patty herself is still actively involved in running restaurant. She personally shops at the Ferry Building Farmer's Market each week, and collaborates with chef Rob Zaborney on the menu.
Patty's staff is full of long-time employees. Many have been there for almost as long as the restaurant has been in existence. They contribute greatly to the warm atmosphere; ask and you shall receive interesting facts about the history of the neighborhood and names of artists who have visited the restaurant, their autographed headshots lining the walls.
Not going to a show, but want an exquisite meal anyway? Patty has a tip to share.
"I think that people don't know that after there's such a demand for seats before the performance, after the people leave for the performance, the restaurant kind of empties out, and it becomes really so much more pleasant to eat here," she says. "It isn't so noisy. The service is more attentive. I just think that people should know that if you want some really fresh delicious dinner, they should come here at 7:30, 8 o’clock. [You] can walk in. [You] don’t need a reservation for that second seating. It is a great time to eat here."
We of course had to ask Patty what she would order from the restaurant:
"A fantastic fall tomato salad. Right now, the beginning of October, is our best tomato moment, and we are getting the most scrumptious tomatoes. They are small, dry-farmed, Early Girl tomatoes that are so sweet, have such concentrated flavor. We have a dish on the menu, it's just a bowl of those tomatoes, served with this Pennyroyal goat milk ricotta, with just basil and a little California extra virgin olive oil. And that plate of tomatoes, with that delicious little plate of ricotta, is one of the greatest plates of food, of the year."
But that's not Patty's only recommendation on the current menu.
"Then I would have... sand dabs, from Half Moon Bay, which is a small little fish. They’re sautéed with just a little butter and lemon and wine sauce. We do have to take the flesh off the bone, and as we all know, anything on the bone is superior. Or, I would get a piece of grilled fish, the Oregon local salmon (it’s almost the end of the king salmon season.) And of course with our crispy French fries. As for dessert, I would have [the] butter milk panna cotta topped with fall berries."
We must add: listening to Patty talk about food is a delight in itself. Her energy and vigor no doubt contributed to the success of the restaurant.
In our constantly-evolving neighborhood, Hayes Street Grill has continued to thrive. “No one has duplicated our menu and our kind of outlook.” Says Patty, “We’re certainty not fancy. When you eat here, [there are] a few more amenities. There are cloth napkins, a bar, something a little more comfy, I think. It’s a little bit old school, and you know what, I like that, it’s worked for 34 years, I personally like it, and damn it, we’re just going to continue doing it!"
As Rob the chef adds, "34 years in the restaurant business is like a century in real time. We’re definitely not 'a flash in the pan.'"
Definitely not, Rob. Definitely not.
