Bistro Gambrinus (1813 Fulton St.) first opened in 2009 as a strictly Eastern European and Russian gastropub. It offered an extensive list of drafts and bottles that were difficult to find elsewhere, along with a menu that was decidedly "Eastern Bloc."
In 2013, it changed hands, and while new owner Nael Al-Shayeb was very keen on keeping the European feel alive in the bar's beer selection and atmosphere, he sought to change the menu, incorporating more American-style pub cuisine.
Today, Bistro Gambrinus remains a popular neighborhood haunt for locals and college students alike. We caught up with Al-Shayeb the other day to chat about beer, his business, and being a part of the neighborhood.
Where are you from, and how did you get here?
I'm originally from Palestine. I moved to the U.S. when I was 18, and started working in my family's restaurant in the Sunset. It was mainly a pizza shop, and then I ran another family restaurant in the Mission, a Mediterranean restaurant. I ran the pizza shop for eight years, and I ran the Mediterranean restaurant for three years.
I had never had the bar experience, but I was very interested, because I've seen a lot of successful bars in San Francisco. This place was for sale, and I came across it and really liked the concept of having 28 beers on tap: different European, local and domestic beers. The concept just clicked with me.
When did you buy the place?
I took over in July 2013.
When you took over, to what extent were you trying to keep the European theme? What changes have you made since then?
I absolutely like the European concept, because not too many bars in San Francisco carry European beers, which makes the place very unique. It's what makes this place a niche business. Most places either carry domestic or local, which is great, but also having the European selection is even better.
I think the menu was very authentic, but I wanted to make it more local, since we have a big audience from USF. I still kept it Eastern European-influenced. I still have the sausage, the schnitzel, the beef stroganoff; the borscht is still the main soup. But I also added some classic pub food.
Have you seen an increase in sales?
Oh, yeah. Absolutely. It just appeals to a bigger audience. People love the beer, but sometimes when you bring very authentic food, it's a little shocking. Pickled fish and beef tongue? It can be too much for some people.
How has your experience running Bistro Gambrinus differed from your experience running more traditional, food-forward establishments?
It's not very different. As a bartender, however, you really get to know people more. That's the main thing. You are in a neighborhood with a lot of locals, and people spend hours here. You get to know their names, you get to know where they are from, you get to know what they do. Then it really gets to the point where you might become really close friends with some of them. It's a better experience then just serving a table and moving on.
So you like it more?
Yes. It's a very social job.
Have people ever doubted your ability to run an 'authentic' European-style restaurant, since you are not from Europe originally?
Absolutely. I kind of feel that any new person who walks in and asks me my ethnicity or background, when I mention that I am Middle Eastern, they are like, 'OK, we don't know what to expect from this place.' However, when they get the food, and experience the beer and the vibe, they are like 'Wow, this is great, this is the right experience.' It always works out well.
What's it like having to appeal to both college kids and people from the neighborhood?
Well, with the college crowd, you need to be open at the right time; you need to understand the schedule of the school. You also have to have affordable prices—you can't go too pricey on students. For locals, it's a whole different story. You have to make a personal experience for everyone that comes in here. That's what makes it homey, that's what makes it a local bar.
The locals are definitely the most interesting. They're very curious about any changes. For example, I painted outside, and perhaps 20 or 25 people asked me what I was doing. And that was just a paint job outside! They're very curious; they consider this part of the neighborhood, so they want to know all the details about it. Who owns it, what's going on, how's the food over there. They talk about it a lot.
What's your favorite kind of European beer?
Style-wise, I think lagers are the best. They are the most well-balanced; they are reasonable in their alcohol content. They are fresh, crisp, and you can drink two or more and still feel good about it. When it comes to domestic, the U.S., and especially California, have gone a long way in good IPAs. California has great, great IPAs.
What's the best California IPA?
[Ballast Point] Sculpin, definitely.
Do you have anything on the horizon for the future?
Honestly, after doing this I really got interested in beer and the beer business in general, and I'm starting a brewery with a few people.
Does serving a large glass boot full of beer to people ever prove to be problematic? Do people get too rowdy?
No, it hasn't. It's always been a good deal! Especially after class if you are over 21.
